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Published in Serbia - Social interactions and entertainment - 21 Sep 2019 05:35 - 1

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Smederevska tvrđava,grad "proklete" Jerine


Smederevska tvrđava je jedna od najvećih srednjovekovnih ravničarskih tvrđava u Evropi i poslednje veliko delo srpske arhitekture iz ovog perioda. Istorija na ovim mestu još uvek živi – grobnica plemkinje sa srednjovekovnim nakitom iskopana je 2012. godine. Zbog ovoga, kao i zbog činjenice da radovi još uvek traju, ovo je mesto koje svi zaljubljenici u arheologiju i istoriju moraju da posete.

A kada jednom budete ovde… ko zna… možda pronađete i legendarno blago proklete Jerine!

Smederevska tvrđava sastoji se iz Velikog i Malog grada. Mali grad su zapravo ostatci nekadašnjeg dvorca u kome je živela despotova porodica i plemstvo. Veliki grad podignut je nešto kasnije i u njega se sklanjalo stanovništvo prilikom turskih osvajanja.

O zidanju ove tvrđave postoje mnoge legende i predanja koja i danas možete čuti od meštana i lokalnih vodiča. Jedna od njih kaže da je despot Đurađ Branković usnio san u kome mu je rečeno da se novi grad mora nalaziti na reci i da je posle toga naredio podizanje tvrđave na ušću reke Jezave u veliki Dunav.

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Tokom izgradnje grada kamen je donošen iz Viminacijuma, sa Kosmaja i iz tvrđave Ram na Dunavu.

Zbog velike brzine kojom je smederevska tvrđava građena, mnogi graditelji su umrli od iznemoglosti radeći na građevini. Za glavnog krivca, narod je proglasio despoticu Jerinu – ženu despota Đurđa kojoj je i do danas ostalo ime “prokleta”.

Tako je verovatno i nastala legenda o blagu koje je ona, pre nego što su osvajači prodrli u utvrđenje, zakopala negde na teritoriji tvrđave, da ga nikada ne nađu. I kako zaista nikada ništa slično nije pronađeno na ovim prostorima, ako žudite za avanturom i maštate o tome da postanete Indijana Džouns, u smederevska tvrđava pružiće vam priliku da probate da ostvarite svoj san.

Iskopavanja u tvrđavi i dalje traju, pa ako posetite ovo mesto zaista ćete imati utisak da se istorija dešava bukvalno pred vama!

Radovima na otkopavanju temelja još uvek veoma misteriozne crkvice u okviru tvrđave za koju se sa sigurnošću ne zna kada je prvi put podignuta, pronađen je grob za sada nepoznate plemkinje i nakit neprocenljive vrednosti u njemu. Vaze, predmete od keramike i srednjovekovno oružje, više se ni ne broji, a sve ovo se može pogledati u obližnjem smederevskom muzeju.

Čak iako niste ljubitelji istorije, smederevska tvrđava ima šta da vam ponudi. Ovde se preko leta održavaju mnogobrojne manifestacije i žurke koje mističnost i drevna otmenost tvrđave pretvaraju u nezaboravne događaje. Preko leta, najpoznatija je pozorišna manifestacija “Tvrđava teatar”. Za one koji Srbiju posećuju u septembru, tu je “Smederevska jesen” – najstariji praznik grožđa i vina u državi, kada tvrđava ponovo oživi i povrati stari sjaj.

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Zbog stalne pretnje od Turaka, Mali grad je podignut za samo dve godine i bio je gotov 1430. godine. Crvenom opekom na kuli “Krstači” i danas stoje utisnute reči: “Hristu Bogu blagoverni despot Đurađ, gospodin Srbljem i pomorju zetskom. Naredbom njegovom sazida se ovaj grad u godini 6938 (1430)”.

Smederevska tvrđava ima trougaoni oblik i 25 visokih kula po kojima je i danas prepoznatljiva. Ona je dugo odolevala osvajačima. Kada je 1459. godine konačno pala pod tursku vlast, bio je to i kraj srednjovekovne srpske države.

Smederevska tvrđava je bila izuzetno očuvana sve do sredine XX veka. Tada se, tokom II svetskog rata, tu desila velika eksplozija municije koja je oštetila tvrđavu i uništila ogroman deo Smedereva. 1946. godine tvrđava je stavljena pod zaštitu države, a njena konzervacija i dalje traje.

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Smederevo fortress, city of the "ed" Jerina

The Smederevo fortress is one of the largest lowland medieval fortresses in Europe and the last major masterpiece of Serbian architecture from this period.

History is still being written here – a tomb of unknown noble woman with priceless jewelry has been discovered in 2012. Archaeological excavations are still active, thus this is favorite destination of all archaeology and history lovers.

Once you’re here… who knows… you might even discover the legendary treasure of the Damned Jerina.

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The Smederevo Fortress comprises of the Big and Small Town. The Small Town is actually the remains of the castle where once the Despot’s family and nobles lived. The Big Town was built later and here people took refuge fleeing from Turks.

There are numerous legends and stories about the construction of the Smederevo fortress. One of the legends says that the despot Đurađ Branković had a dream in which he was instructed to build a new city on a river, hence he ordered the new city to be built on the confluence of the Jezava River and the Danube.

The stone for the building of the fortress was brought from Viminacium, Mt. Kosmaj and the Ram fortress on the Danube.

The city was built in just few years so many builders died of exhaustion. People were looking for a culprit and the wife of Serbian Despot Djuradj Branković – Jerina (Irene Kantakouzene) was blamed for it and the name “Damned Jerina” remained until this day.

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The legend of lost treasure, that she had buried somewhere in the fortress, never to be found by conquerors, still hunts numerous adventurists. So if you’re seeking an adventure and you want to feel like Indiana Jones, try your luck looking for this treasure.

The archaeological excavations are still ongoing and you will have impression that history is revealing in front of you.

Excavating the foundations of a very mysterious little church in the fortress (it is not certain when it was built), a tomb of still unknown noble woman with priceless jewelry was discovered. Numerous vases, pottery and medieval arms can be seen in the nearby Museum in Smederevo.

The Smederevo fortress has a lot to offer even to those who are not that interested in history. In summer numerous manifestations and parties take place here and mysticism of this ancient fortress turn them into unforgettable events.

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“Tvrđava teatar” (Fortress Theatre) is well known theatre manifestation that takes place every summer inside the Smederevo fortress. In September “Smederevska jesen” (Autumn in Smederevo) – the oldest viticulture manifestation in Serbia attracts numerous visitors. On those occasions the Fortress comes to life and restores its old glory.

The constant threat of Turks forced them to complete the Small City in just two years. The construction was finished in 1430.

Today the inscription made of red brick with the words of the despot thanking God for the successful completion of the city still stands on the “Krstača” (Huge cross) tower.

The Smederevo fortress was built in the form of irregular triangle and it is recognizable by 25 high towers. The fortress long stood strong before the conquerors. In 1459 it was finally conquered by Turks. It was the end of the Serbian medieval country.

The Smederevo fortress was well preserved until the middle of the 20th century. During the World War II a mive explosion occurred damaging the fortress and the large part of the town of Smederevo.In 1946 the fortress was put under the protection of the state, while the conservation works are still ongoing.

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